After crossing the shimmering Ashokan Reservoir, we headed west on 28A to 213, taking in the sights as shadows danced through the trees and deer grazed the fields. No traffic, no noise. This is what country living is all about.

Our destination was the wine cellar at The Depuy Canal House in High Falls, where Makio Idesako, a New York Times Three Star Chef, was about to prepare his authentic Sushi/Sashimi for me. I won't keep you in suspense. It was all I had been told, and more.

The Canal House, a registered National Historic Property, is tastefully landscaped, the plantings and sculptures surrounded by mature trees. As we passed through the door and down the steps, the coolness of the wine cellar's stonework rose up to greet us. Passing the Amici Sushi counter and chef, we entered the comfortable dining room with its many architectural features and lovingly collected art pieces serving as an eye-candy appetizer while we waited to place our orders. The cellar also houses Chefs on Fire (Italian bistro fare and Pizza).

Juliette ordered quesadilla, with which she was quite impressed, and I ordered a sushi assortment. When they arrived, artistically displayed, we knew we were in the right place. But, had there been any doubt, my first taste of sushi would have confirmed that Makio Idesako was a culinary artist of the first rank. The cut of the fish was generous, the seasoning perfect and the rice pure ecstasy. By the end of our lunch, I knew I would be back. But next time it would be to interview Chef Idesako for Woodstock Times.

The next time came three weeks later. Again, I had the most pleasant ride to the Canal House. As I arrived, there was lots of getting-ready-for-summer planting going on outside. Inside, I sat at the sushi bar. This time, I discovered that diners of the Depuy Canal House who want to add Sushi to their meal can have it sent up to their table. So, under one roof, there are three restaurants: John Novi's famous Depuy Canal House, Chefs on Fire Bistro and Amici Sushi.

According to the Canal House's Website (depuycanalhouse.com), "Sushi Chef, Makio, has been a friend (Amici) of the Canal House for many years. His background as a chef stems from his early years in Kagoshima Province, better known as Satsuma, a city located in the southern part of Japan. Makio schooled and studied his art in Daruma Restaurant in Yuraku-cho located in the center of Tokyo, Japan. His teacher, Yojiro Sakaki, a well-known sushi pioneer chef later became Makio's father-in-law. The student/teacher relationship became more intense. When Yojiro retired, he later became the chef for Japan's Prime Minister."

In our conversation, I mentioned that it was unusual to find a Japanese chef of Sushi in the Hudson Valley. "Yes," Makio told me, "most in this area are Chinese, Korean or Vietnamese."

He also spoke about his early years. He was born in a small village in the south of Japan. His parents led a rural life and it wasn't until he graduated college with a business degree that he studied the art of making sushi, under the guidance of his father-in-law.

"How long," I wondered, "does it take to be a Sushi chef?"

"Ten years!" was his answer.

During our conversation, I learned that Makio has a wife and two children. That his son and daughter have both finished college and that he owned and sold restaurants in NYC and Westchester.

While he still lives part time in Westchester, he loves High Falls and the Hudson Valley, and is hoping to eventually move, full time, to the country.

Chef Idesako personally goes to NYC to buy the fresh fish and shellfish, which he cooks and prepares, from start to finish. He also tries to use as much local produce and vegetables as possible, to keep the quality and freshness as perfect as can be.

As we chatted, I was served exquisite green tea in a ceramic teapot, which I poured and enjoyed, with my tamago - a freshly made (not frozen or commercially made) cross between an egg omelet and firm custard. Placed beautifully on a plate cut to resemble growing trees, it was the most delicious tamago I have ever eaten in this country, or in Japan, which I've visited twice. The lightness and the lightly sweet taste were exquisite.

Now Maguro appears before me (mah-goo-roh). Its richly thick slices of tuna, separated from the rice by a perfect mix of wasabi and the rice seasonings, literally melted in my mouth.

According to Idesako, many Americans use too much soy (not me). He advises putting about one tablespoon, or more if you need it, into the soy dish, then dipping one fourth of the fish side before eating it in one bite.

As to etiquette, it is perfectly okay to eat with your fingers. Usually an oshibori (warm wet towel) is given to you at Japanese restaurants so you can wash off your hands. Chopsticks are fine and generally green tea or sake is the beverage of choice with Sushi. And no need to add Wasabi (horseradish) to the soy (which is low sodium) since the Wasabi is between the fish and the rice. The ginger (Gari) Chef Idesako uses is white (not dyed the usual pink), and its spicy, tangy taste is really special.

With the Maguro downed, I ordered Omikase. This is where the Sushi chef makes what he wants. Makio chose to make a dragon roll, a deep-fried soft-shell crab worked into a roll creation that's livable, eatable art.

"You eat with your eyes first," Chef Idesako says - and man, oh man, he's so right. He also compares his work with food to Ikebana (flower arranging).

Amici Sushi may have the smallest counter in the Hudson Valley, but here's a case where small and intimate work like a charm. But, if you're thinking big-crowd celebration, Amici Sushi, which is vegetarian friendly, can cater from ten pieces to 1,000 pieces with just a touch of notice.

My meal's finale appeared in miso soup form - not like run of the mill miso - this was light but rich. Even the small cubes of diced tofu were special. It was the perfect ending to a perfect show of talent and taste. Amici wins five stars in my review.