Ingredients: 1 c. olive oil, 1 lb. unlinked sweet Italian pork sausage, 2 tbs. chopped garlic, 2 tbs. fennel seeds, 2 large smoked ham hocks, 1 c. diced fresh pork butt, 12 ozs. fresh kielbase sliced thin, 2 lbs. large Spanish onions, 8 c. sauerkraut (freshly made if possible) strained and chopped, 1 bottle champagne or good white wine, 4 c. chicken stock, 1/2 c. fresh thyme, 2 tbs. coarse ground black pepper, 12 small chicken or veal bratwursts, salt to taste.

The Method: Put together your "mise en place" (all ingredients in place, ready to use). Heat olive oil in an 8 quart saucepan. When oil is hot, add garlic and sausage. Cook and stir until the fat is extracted. Add the fennel seeds. Layer the remaining ingredients in the pot in the following order: NEVER STIR THE MIXTURE DURING THE LAYERING PROCESS OR YOU WILL DESTROY THE ROMANCE. Start with a small amount of the onions and some chicken stock to prevent sticking.

LAYER A: Add a handful of sauerkraut and sprinkle a small amount of thyme.

LAYER B: Add a handful of sliced kielbasa and a splash of wine.

Repeat layers A and B, this time including most of the pork butt. Place the remainder of the port butt on top along with the whole ham hocks. Sprinkle all the remainder of the thyme and all the pepper. Bring casserole to a boil, then lower to a simmer and cook for two full hours. Remove the ham hocks to a work board and remove the fat. Return the meat portion to the top of the casserole along with one bratwurst for each portion. Simmer for another half hour. When ready to serve, remove the bratwurst, stir the pot a few times to mix well and add salt if desired.

To Serve: The choucroute can also be served as an accompaniment to game hen or quail. Either may be trussed and stewed on top of the choucroute. Mustard and/or sour cream may be served on the side. Garnish each plate with a fresh sprig of thyme. Serves 8 - 12.

Ingredients:
THE OCTOPUS:
1 lb. whole octopus, 1 small celery, 1/2 bulb fresh fennel, 1 small red bell pepper, 1 tsp coarsely ground pepper, 6 whole wine bottle corks, 1 tsp. salt

Method: Cut off the head of the octopus. Remove and discard the center hard ball found directly between the head and tentacles. Place the octopus with the vegetables and corks in a casserole and cover with water. Bring to the boiling point but DO NOT BOIL. Lower the heat to a slight simmer and cook for approximately one and a half hours until fork tender. (Or put the pan in the oven at 350 degrees.) Remove from heat and strain separating the vegetables from the liquid. Mince the vegetables fine and toss with balsamic vinegar. Refrigerate until ready for use. Reserve the liquid for use in risotto.

FAUX OYSTER WITH QUAIL EGG: 4 four inch long herring fillets, 8 whole quail eggs, 1 c. Panko (Japanese) bread crumbs, 2 whole eggs, beaten, 3 drops tabasco sauce.

The Method:Cut the herring fillets in half and put them between plastic wrap. Pat with a wooden mallet until paper thin. Poach the quail eggs in almost boiling water until they pull together and are firm but still soft. Strain and chill in ice water immediately. Carefully place one egg on the center of each fillet and wrap the herring around it. Whip the whole eggs and add a pinch of tabasco. Dip each of the herring wrapped quail eggs in the beaten eggs and then in the bread crumbs. Saute until golden brown.

CREAMED SPINACH RISOTTO
(made without cream)
2 tbs. olive oil, 1 1/2 c. onions, chopped, 2 large garlic cloves, minced, 1 c. arborio rice, 3/4 c. dry white wine, 5 c. octopus broth, 1 8-oz. package spinach, 1/2 c. grated Parmesan cheese, 1/4 c. fresh basil, 2 dashes nuoco man (Vietnamese fish water), freshly ground pepper.

The Method:Heat the oil in saucepan over medium heat. Add chopped onion. Saute until transparent, about 3 minutes. Add garlic and stir for one minute. Add the rice and stir until edge of rice is translucent but center is opaque, about 2 minutes. Add wine and cook until absorbed, stirring occasionally, about 2 minutes. Add octopus broth 3/4 cup at a time simmering each addition until almost absorbed, stirring often, until rice is just tender and mixture is creamy, about 25 minutes total. During last five minutes, add spinach in four batches, giving each time to wilt before new addition. Mix in Parmesan cheese, basil, and a bit of fresh ground pepper. Season to taste with nuoco man or salt.

The Presentation: Reheat the octopus in a small amount of its own cooking broth. (Do not boil.) Spoon the rissoto onto the center of a plate and wrap the heated octopus legs around it. Place two faux oysters on top and garnish the plate with a spoonful of the pickled vegetables and a sprig of Italian parsley. Makes 4 servings.